(I quoted the diary on FaceBook and added a photo to it...) (The English text is posted with some revisions after DeepL traslation)
Ayutthaya Diary. The final page of this World Heritage Site. A few days after returning to Bangkok. I have been going shopping by taking advantage of the free local train service. The decision to make the originally low-cost trains even more free of charge is a bold one as a policy. I think that in another 10 years, the train network will be as well developed as those in Tokyo and Osaka. I
will upload only a limited number of photos since it is already a
famous sightseeing spot (my wifi is not working well and I have already
failed to upload twice, so I will do it little by little). So, I almost succeeded in uploading the photos. One word to describe my impression of this site: ruins. It is a site that clearly conveys the fact that a continental nation has survived many wars. I also felt that Japanese people, including Nagamasa Yamada, were a part of the history of this country.
Postscript. I went shopping to MBK in the afternoon, but the BTS was so crowded that I could not get off at the station, so I took the opposite lane at the next station and finally arrived home. It was as crowded as a commuter train in Japan. I also visited the Air Force Museum in the morning.
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遺跡はこういった塔と,拝殿を支えていた柱,さらに壁などで構成されています.有名なアンコールワットより200年ほど時代が下った,日本では室町時代に相当します.1351年
- 1767年の間のアユタヤ王朝の首都になります.18世紀にビルマに攻められて,焼かれ壊されているところがほかの類似の遺跡と異なる点です.
The ruins consist of these towers, the pillars that supported the worship hall, and walls. It was the capital of the Ayutthaya dynasty between 1351 and 1767, about 200 years later than the famous Angkor Wat, and differs from other similar monuments in that it was burned down and destroyed by the Burmese in the 18th century. |
方位を示す標石だそうですが,結晶片岩です.どこのものかがとても気になります.
It is said to be a directional marker, but it is a crystalline schist. I am very curious to know where it is from. |
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こちらは構造物のほとんどを構成する赤レンガ.当時のものだと思われますが.アンコールワットの石材とは一味違います.この遺跡の象徴的な赤のイメージはここから来ます.
These are the red bricks that make up most of the structure. It seems to be from that time. It is different from the stone of Angkor Wat. The symbolic red image of the ruins comes from here. |
多くの仏像の頭が切り落とされているのが,ここの特徴です.ビルマ軍の暴力の激しさが目に浮かびます.しかしビルマはその罰が当たったのか.その後政情が安定せず,現在は内戦に至っていますね.まあ日本にも責任の一端があるのですが.
The heads of many of the Buddha statues have been chopped off. The violence of the Burmese army is very intense. But the Burmese were punished for it. The political situation has not stabilized since then, and now they are in a civil war. Well, Japan is partly to blame. |
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この遺跡で例の有名なものを見ていなかったので,出口で観光ガイドみたいな人に聞いてこの場所を教えてもらいました.最初に立ち寄る場所のようですが,私は例によって何も考えずに反対に回ってしまったようです.あとから観光バスで来たツアー客が群がっていました.
As I had not seen the famous one at this site, I asked a tourist guide at the exit and he told me about this place. It seemed to be the first stop, but as usual, I went the opposite way without thinking. Tourists who came by sightseeing bus were swarming around the site. |
塔とは対照的に大きな拝殿の伽藍を支えていた,柱と壁が残されています.塔もそうですが,傾いたものも多く,復元作業がなされているのだと思わます.
In contrast to the pagoda, the pillars and walls that supported the large worship hall still remain. As with the pagoda, many of the pillars and walls are tilted, suggesting that restoration work is underway. |
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レンガとスタッコで作られていると書かれています.次に復元図をご紹介します.
It is written that it is made of brick and stucco. Next is a reconstruction of the building. |
復元図はまるでギリシャ神殿のように見事なもののようです(ギリシャは行ったことがないけど).拝殿の作りは今もタイに多く残る形式のようですね.
The reconstruction looks like a magnificent Greek temple (I have never been to Greece). The worship hall seems to be built in a style that is still common in Thailand today. |
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焼け跡が著しいレンガとスタッコの壁.さらにその向こうに首を刎ねられた痛々しい姿の,仏像群が並びます.まさにruinという感じです.
Brick and stucco walls that have been severely damaged by fire. Beyond the wall, there is a group of statues of Buddha, which have been painfully decapitated. It looks exactly like a ruin. |
塔のいくつかには,見事な飾りが刻まれています.アユタヤ朝の栄華,ここに極まれりといった様相でしょうか.
Some of the pagodas are decorated with magnificent ornaments. The glory of the Ayutthaya dynasty is at its peak here. |
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このような遺跡は市街に点在して,それらを適当に回ったので,正直どれがどれだったかはあまり記憶に残っていません.まあ全体としてこれが世界遺産のアユタヤ遺跡なのだという実感です.最後には"赤レンガ酔い"のような,酩酊状態に入ること間違いないです.
These ruins are scattered all over the city, and since we visited them at random, I honestly do not remember which one was which. Well, I felt that as a whole, this is the World Heritage Site of Ayutthaya. I am sure that at the end of the tour, you will be in a state of intoxication like "red brick illusion". |
一瞬,小動物が目の前を横切りました.野生のリスです.きちんと写真を撮ろうとしたのですが,素早い動きで逃げられてしまいました.どこに居るかわかりますか?リスは珍しいです.犬はどこにでもいるのですが.
A small animal crosses in front of me for a moment. It was a wild squirrel. I tried to take a good picture of it, but it was too quick and ran away. Do you know where he/she is? Squirrels are rare. Dogs are everywhere. |
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一
つだけ登れる塔があったので,登ってみました.すれちがった観光客はロシア語を話していました.ロシア人もこの国には多いですね.私がこちらで世話になっ
たT先生は,昨年だったかロシアにおられました.タイの科学教育はロシアとのつながりも深いとか.そういえばKVISにいたとき,ロシア人の女性研究者と
小旅行をご一緒したことがありましたっけ.http://yossi-okamoto.net/KVIS/2018/Photo_diary_Part3.html
There was only one tower that was climbable, so I climbed it. The tourists I passed were speaking Russian. There are many Russians in this country. Dr. T, who was my mentor here, was in Russia last year. I heard that science education in Thailand has deep ties with Russia. I remember that when I was in KVIS, I had a short trip with a Russian lady researcher. |
これ最後の方で訪れた寺院ですが,この3本の棟が整った姿で美しく,かなり印象が強かった.日本人の学生らしい団体が,とてもはしゃいていたのが楽しそうでよかった.
This is the last temple I visited, and I was quite impressed by the beauty of these three well-dressed buildings. I saw a group of Japanese students seemed to be having a lot of fun here. |
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これ壁の一部なのですが,隙間の開け方が面白いですね.飾りなのか敵の襲撃に対応するための銃眼なのかは不明です.
This is a part of a wall, and the way the gap is opened is interesting. It is not clear whether they are for decoration or for a gun sight to respond to an attack by the enemy. |
さてアユタヤ最終日に立ち寄った日本人町です.これ最初予定になかったのですが,何か市街に渡る橋を探していて,偶然案内をみかけて立ち寄ったものです.どこかの欧米系の小学校が遠足できていたようです.まあ典型的な日本文化の紹介の例ですね.桜はもちろん造花です.
This is the Japanese town we stopped by on our last day in Ayutthaya. This was not in my plan at first, but I was looking for a bridge to cross into the city, and I happened to see a sign and stopped by. It seems that some Western primary school had a field trip there. Well, this is a typical example of introducing Japanese culture. Of course, the cherry blossoms are artificial. |
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こ
の場所には動画展示が2か所にあって,それぞれここにかつてあった日本人町を紹介しています.有名な山田長政も詳細に紹介されていました.ビルマ軍と戦う
外国義勇軍の隊長だったのですね.そのころのアユタヤは国際都市で,世界の文物がこのように,船でチャオプラヤ川を遡り運ばれてきたそうです.タイミング
よく船が荷物を運んできたので,その動画が撮れました.
There are two video exhibits in this location, each showing the Japanese town that used to be here. The famous Nagamasa Yamada was introduced in detail. He was a captain of the foreign volunteer army fighting against the Burmese army. Ayutthaya was a cosmopolitan city in those days, and cultural relics from all over the world were transported by boat up the Chao Phraya River like this. I was able to take a video of the ship bringing in the cargo at the right time. |
山田長政とは別に,日本人町でポルトガル人とのハーフとして生まれた女性がやがて,お菓子作りなどで有名になり,最後は王室で仕事をするようになったと紹介されています.このエピソードも興味深いです.
In addition to Nagamasa Yamada, a woman born half-Portuguese in a Japanese town eventually became famous for her pastry making and eventually worked for the royal family. This episode is also interesting. |
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ビルマとの戦争で使われた武器があとで訪れたアユタヤ国立博物館に展示されていました. Weapons used in the war with Burma were on display at the Ayutthaya National Museum, which I visited later. |
キャノンボールと書かれていた砲弾です.下にチケットを置いたので,サイズがわかるでしょうか?かなり大きなものです.まあ城壁の破壊などに用いたのだと思われます.
These are spheres that was labeled “Cannonball”. Can you see the size of the ticket? It is quite large. I guess they were used to destroy the walls of the city. |
Fourth day at Bankok Hotel. Tomorrow I will be moving to a high school in the south for the second half of this trip, so I will not be able to relax until today. Taking advantage of the free transportation, I went to the Air Force Museum yesterday morning, which I had always wanted to see. It is a free facility, but it was wonderful. Not only indoors but also outdoors, there are many aircraft used by the Air Force on display. Of course, there are no fences and you can touch them. If you like airplanes, this is definitely the place to go. If you are a military geek, it is even better. It is located near the air force base next to Don Mueang airport, and you can get there by BTS (elevated train), which was free this week. I'm planning to do laundry and walk around the city after today.
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交
通機関が無料になる仕組み.これはホテルのそばのARL(エアポートリンクという高架鉄道,このほかにMRTとBTSがある)の改札口前でスタッフがトークン
という切符にあたる,プラスティックコインを渡してくれます.これで改札を入場できます.とくにどこに行くと告げる必要もありません.
This is a system that allows free transportation. The staff will give you a token, which is a plastic coin that looks like a ticket, at the ticket gate of the ART (Airport Link, an elevated railroad, MRT and BTS are also available) on the hotel vicinity. With this, you can enter the ticket gate. You don't have to tell them where you are going. |
こちらは終点で乗り換えた,BTS(これもスカイトレインと呼ぶ高架鉄道)です.平日の昼だというのに,あまりこれまで見たことのないような混雑ぶり.いつもは座れることも多かったような.さすがに無料も1週間経過すると人々の利用もすすむようです.
This is the BTS (also called Skytrain) that I changed trains at the end of the line. It was a weekday afternoon, but the train was crowded like I have never seen before. Usually, I could sit in a seat. As expected, people seem to be using the BTS more and more after one week of free service. |
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さて結構走ってドンムアン空港そばの,空軍博物館に来ました.同名の駅を降りてすぐですが,駅の下に案内が出ていないので,少し迷います.あとで屋内を見ますが,とても大きな建物です.さすがに軍だけにお金がかかっています.
After a long drive, I came to the Air Force Museum near Don Mueang Airport. It is located right after getting off the station of the same name, but there is no sign below the station, so you may get lost a little. I will see the inside of the museum later. It is a very big building, and as you would expect from the military, it took much cost. |
屋内はタイ空軍の歴史を説明する展示とともに,時代ものの機体から現在の機体まで所せましと展示されていました.これを見て回るだけでも結構時間がかかるのですが,実は展示は外にもすごい数ありました.
Inside the building, there were many exhibits explaining the history of the Royal Thai Air Force, as well as a variety of aircraft from the past to the present. It took me quite a while just to look around the exhibits in the building, but in fact, there were many more exhibits outside the building. |
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何とタイのビーチで見つかったという,旧日本軍の97式戦闘機の残骸だそうです.キ27についてはここに解説があります.https://ja.wikipedia.org/.../%E4%B9%9D%E4%B8%83%E5%BC%8F...
It is said to be the wreckage of a Type Ki-97 fighter plane of the former Japanese Army, which was found on a beach in Thailand. You can read more about the Ki-27 here |
こちらは戦後に使われたグラマンF8Fの機体.米軍が空母で運用していたので,翼が折れる構造になっている.ミサイルが翼下にありますね.
This is a Grumman F8F used after the war. The wings are foldable, because the U.S. NAVY used them on aircraft carriers. Missiles are under the wings. |
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こちらは現在の主力戦闘機?の,F16ですね.あとで外でも展示されていました.初めて近くでみましたが,それほど大きくない印象でした.
This is an F16, the current main fighter plane? F16. It was displayed outside later. I saw it up close for the first time, but it didn't look so big. |
さて外の展示がすごかった.もう数を数えられないくらい飛行機が並んでいます.最後の方はベトナム戦争当時に活躍した機体もあります.これ以外にも米軍はベトナム戦争をはさんで,結構な数の機体をタイ空軍に譲渡したようです.
The display outside was amazing. There are so many airplanes that I can't even count them. The last one is an aircraft that was active during the Vietnam War. It seems that the U.S. Air Force transferred quite a few aircraft to the Royal Thai Air Force during the Vietnam War. |
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ちょっと説明を見忘れましたが,このほかに旅客機仕様のものもありました. I forgot to look at the description, but there was also a passenger plane version. |
驚いたのがこれです.何とMig21が展示されていて,これはどうしたのかと解説プレートを読むと,ベトナム戦争のときの北ベトナムの主力戦闘機ですが,戦争後にベトナム政府からタイに寄贈されたのだそうです.
What surprised me was this. I read the explanation plate and found that it was the main fighter plane of North Vietnam during the Vietnam War, but it was donated to Thailand by the Vietnamese government after the war. |
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当時の米軍の主力のF4ファントムなどと,空中戦を戦った機種ですね.これは初めてみました.
It was a model that fought in the air against the F4 Phantom, the mainstay of the U.S.Air Force at that time. This is the first time I have seen this aircraft. |
そしてさらにこちらは,何と垂直離着陸機のハリヤーです.英国とアルゼンチンの間で戦われたフォークランド紛争で目にしたか? And here is the Halyer, a vertical takeoff and landing aircraft. Did you see it during the Falklands War between UK and Argentina?
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たしか現在も英軍の主力戦闘機のはずですね.これは初めて見ました.
I believe it is still the main fighter of the British Army. This is the first time I have seen it. |
そして左がF5E,右がF16B(複座型)ファイティングファルコンです.F5Eには空対空ミサイルである,サイドワインダーが搭載されていました.
The F5E on the left and the F16B (double-seat type) Fighting Falcon on the right, the F5E was equipped with Sidewinder, an air-to-air missile. |
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サ
イドワインダーの赤外線シーカーを,初めて身近に見ました.これ凄いですね.敵機のエンジンの放熱を狙って追尾する仕組みです.当然ながら追尾される方
は,チャフという花火みたいな熱源を,放射して逃れようとするわけですが.大昔にSSH予算で買ったサーモカメラと原理は同じだったような?
This is the first time I have seen a Sidewinder infrared seeker up close. This is amazing. It is a system to track enemy aircraft by aiming at the heat radiation of their engines. Of course, the tracked aircraft tries to escape by radiating a heat source called chaff, which looks like a firework. I think the principle of an IR seeker is the same as the thermo camera I bought with SSH budget a long time ago for students* science project. |
朝鮮戦争の国連軍(米軍)の主力戦闘機F8Fセーバーの骨格です.楕円形の穴は片側3門ある12.7mm機銃の開口部です.
This is the skeleton of the F8F Sabre, the main fighter of the United Nations (U.S.) forces in the Korean War. The oval holes are openings for three 12.7mm machine guns on each side. |
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さて帰りの電車はごらんの混み具合.これうっかりしていて,降りる駅で降りれず,一つ先まで行って,反対側の列車でホテルにたどり着きました.まさかタイで満員地獄に会うとは.
The train on the way back was as crowded as you can see. I was so careless that I didn't get off at the station I was supposed to get off at, so I went one stop further and took the train on the other side to my hotel. I never thought I would meet a packed hell in Thailand. |
さ
て少し遅くなった昼食はホテル側の駅に,最近できた屋台村.こちらはこのあたりに多く住む,ムスリムの人たち向けのHALAL料理を売っています.これ附
属高で最初に修学旅行の下見でインドネシアのバリ島に行ったときに,HALALという言葉を知りました.異文化を理解するにはやはり出かけることが一番で
すね.
Lunch was a little late, but I went to the recently built food stall village at the train station biside at the hotel. This stall sells “HALAL” food for Muslims who live in this area many. I learned the word “HALAL” when I went to Bali, Indonesia as a preliminary inspection for the school excursion at my high school. I think the best way to understand different cultures is to go out. |
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と
いうわけで久々にカイジャオライス.昼間は暑くなったので,当然昼ビール.同じく屋台村で買ったパパイヤのカットと,駅で時間待ちに勉強しているタイ語の
アルファベット.これ駅の表示を見て,ローマ字に該当するアルファベットをチェックしたところ.Loeiで出会ったJICAの情報の先生に感化されて,少
しタイ語の勉強を始めようと思っています.
So, after a long time, I made kaijao rice. It was hot during the day, so naturally I had a beer at the daytime. I bought some cut papaya at a food stall, and I'm studying the Thai alphabet while waiting at the train station. Inspired by a JICA information teacher I met at Loei, I am going to restart studying Thai a little. |
この後歩いて近所のコインランドリー。14kgの洗濯機に入れようとすると、親切な店主らしいおばあさんがこっちに入れなさいと10kgの方を示してくれた。値段は30バーツと格安。タイは本当に親切な人が多い。電車でも何度か席を譲られかけた。笑って立っていましたが。
I walked to a laundromat in the neighborhood and tried to put my clothes in the 14kg washing machine, but a kind old lady who seemed to be the owner of the laundromat showed me the 10kg machine and told me to put my clothes in this one. The price was cheaper only 30 baht. There are so many kind people in Thailand. I was almost given up my seat several times on the train. I stood there laughing, though. |